Posted
by Pugs on
Another graphite rod question...
Can anyone please explain
the difference between IM6, IM7, IM8 and the HMG classes of graphite rods?
I've seen IM6 rods for sale for as little as $20.00 and as high as $50 or $60.
Does it matter?
Thanks as always...
Pugs
Posted
by Bass Rat on
The higher the IM # The more modules of graphite=more sensitivity. Where'd you see IM6 for $20?
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Posted
by Pugs on
Sports
Authority.
They had the Rapala Sportsmen Series rod for $20.00.
Posted
by earthworm77 on
The higher the modulous rating, the more sensitive the rod is said to be. IM6 is old school now with the advent of IM8, and IMX technology. 20.00 is about right. I still see some of those rods going for close to 100.00 though. Check out the HM85 stuff. That is primo!
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Posted
by Wild Bill on
Pugs...
There are decent poles in MANY price ranges.....we all have different 'budgets',
so try to find something that fits in yours.
I am NO pole expert, but have bought a few...LMAO,,.
yeah, just a few I keep telling myself...lol
Today, often poles are made for specific applications by many manufacturers,
and often one type of Graphite may be used for that application, for one reason
or another as opposed to others. heck, some companies
even make poles today for "crankng" in
fiber-glass still, though considered a 'way-outdated' pole material by others,
as some crankbaiters like the characteristics it
gives .
Some today have a IM6 base, but a IM8 tip....all kind
of poles out there today.
ALL rod companies say they are the best ones out there...for the money.
Bass Pro Shops offers many levels of rods for many different price ranges, and
I must say I think they are a good value for thier
prices, as I have Tourney Specials, Bionic Blades, and Extremes [three of their
mid-priced graphite poles], and I like them all, especially for what I paid for
each one of them. Often, they are on sale there, and I have taken advantage of
those sales to get some deals. My poles range from IM6 to IM8....
Now, when constructing a pole, there is a resin that the graphite fibers are
mixed into, and then the pole is formed. The amount of resin to graphite varies
froom brand to brand, too beside the different
Graphite particles. From what I have been told, IM6 is he
heaviest blank rod, then IM7, then Im8....
The best advice I can offer is to try to figure out what you intend to use the
pole for...and buy a pole to meet that need/application. Each technique calls
for specific attributes in a pole, as well as sizes too. For Jerkbaiting, I use a much shorter pole than for casting Senkos, in example.... For froggin"
, I want a much stiffer/thicker pole than for real light jigging, so hopefully,
you can see one pole does not do it all well. Some techniques call for an
'almost broomstick', were others call for a light
delicate stick....
Once you figure what you will be using the pole for mostly, post here, and I am
sure some will help you in the right direction for that application based on
their experiences and their level of insanity[lol].
So many factors come into play when buying a pole....
length, wieght of lures suggested, action[extra fast tip,fast tip, slow tip, broom handle{LOL}],and of course,
hopefully you can find it in a price you can afford .
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Posted
by Paul_M on
quote:
Can anyone please explain the difference between IM6, IM7, IM8 and the HMG classes of graphite rods?
Marketing.
Posted
by earthworm77 on
I'll tell you what though...I really do think there is a difference as you go up the ladder. I do like BPS rods. I swore by the Bionic Blades which are great IM8 rods. I switched over to the Extremes and feel they are even better but lack the models I need. Now I'm starting to use the Johnny Morris HM-85 and I think this is the best rod I've ever used. I just got my hands on a GY Loomis rod and I'll let you know how it compares.
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Posted
by dodgeguy on
e.w.,do you have the click lock reel seat or the spinning model?i
was wondering how that click lock seat was?
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Posted
by Bass Rat on
EW, Careful now,when you use that Loomis for a
while your love affair with the BPS rods is liable to be over.
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Posted
by earthworm77 on
The Johnny rods are on sale for 99.99. I go my GY today. I like the feel of it but I like my JM better so far.
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Posted
by Bass Stalker on
Re: Another graphite rod question...
quote:
Originally
posted by Pugs
Can anyone please explain the difference between IM6, IM7, IM8 and the HMG
classes of graphite rods?
Pugs,
The first thing you should know is there is no industry standard for IM6, IM7and
IM8. Rather, it’s a “range” that manufacturers use to classify their rods
according to the “modulus” content. Modulus is a term that describes the
stiffness to weight ratio of the graphite that’s used to create the rod blank.
Here’s how it works….when you cast a lure, the rod flexes with the weight of
the lure, storing energy as it flexes. When the motion of the rod stops, the
rod flexes and releases all of its stored energy to propel the lure. When you
increase the modulus of the graphite, you increase the ability of that graphite
to store and release energy. You also increase the speed that the rod releases
the stored energy. That in turn, increases the lure speed that is generated in
the cast. Increase the modulus and you increase the reaction speed and power of
the rod blank.
Below is a general example of modulus ratings using G Loomis classes:
GLX - 65 million modulus
IMX - 55 million modulus
GL3 - 47 million modulus (IM8)
GL2 - 42 million modulus (IM7)
IM6 - 38 million modulus
Standard Graphite - 33 million modulus
Unfortunately, increased modulus results in increased costs. The highest
modulus graphite material costs as much as ten times more than standard
graphite. The drawback with increased modulus is the rod blank tends to be
somewhat “brittle” and more likely to break from impact fracture, such as
dropping the rod on a hard surface. If you tend be abusive with your gear, it
would be wise to back away from the top modulus rods and choose something in
the mid range that will offer more durability. Before you purchase a rod,
especially the high priced, high modulus, be sure that
it is backed by a lifetime warranty.
Good luck….
Ronnie
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Posted
by basseracci on
IM 6 is Good Enough
I don't think you need to
look too far into the graphite rating...I have seen IM 10 rod that aint worth a shit but IM 6 rods that will "knock your
socks off"...For instance, Sports Authority has a ton of Brand Name IM 7s
and IM 8s that I wouldn't even use to "snake my drains"...So does
K-mart for that matter...You have to look at the rod as a whole and consider
the length, action, taper, etc...The graphite can be manipulated toward certain
rod features when it is made into the blank...Thats
why the same series of rods, made from the same material/graphite/composite,
can exhibit so may diferent characteristics suitable
to many fishing applications...The bottom line, all my good rods are IM 6 maybe
one IM 7 and they do everything I ask them to and I don't think I am
compromising too much...
Some of the premium rod companies have even divorced themselves completely from
the common kind of IM graphite rating system, because they know it don't mean a
thing until after the blank is designed and made ...They have gone so far as to
create their own nomenclature to classify their blanks...For example, I think
St Croix uses their own system...Sure, it easily crosses over to the IM
classification system, but they seem to refrain from the generic marketing of a
rod's characteristics based on materials...
Another tidbit for thought...Higher and higher modulus rods may not be all that
great...There is a cutoff point somewhere...An overly sensitive rod is not
always good for a number of reasons...With fishing applications aside, those
higher modulus rods are more brittle...Thats the
compromise...They are "without a doubt" more vulnerable to breakage
and/or damage...The rod is actually weaker in my opinion and a nick or a good
hit could break the rod easily...A friend of mine had one of those BPS IM 8 or
IM 10 rods and I accidentally hit it with my rod, I think with one of my rod
guides on a cast...That rod broke cleanly right at that spot...I replaced the
rod for him, and in turn he gave me that one to fix for myself as a
back-up...What a piece of shit...
Anyway, the chances are that if you saw an IM 6 rod for 20.00, it could be a
discontinued series and it might be a deal on a good entry level rod...I don't
think you found a super premium rod, but so what?...But there is also an equal
chance that "if you buy a 20.00 fishing rod, you just bought a rod worth
20.00"...That last line sounded a little like a "Yogi-ism"...
Mark D
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Posted
by basseracci on
Ronnie,
I didn't realize i was working on this post so
long...I repeated some of your good points...I am at work, and as you know,
work can be distracting when you are trying to post on Nybass
(lol)...
mark d
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Posted
by JOHN G on
Mark: you brought out the
best argument of all:
just because something says IM6 doesn't mean it is manufactured or made the
same way.......
pick up an IM6 rod at a big dealer that carries a lot of gear, say a Shimano or
any other good brand....and then pick up a LOOMIS IM6......all the difference
in the world.......
the world should be so simple that you only have to give people the raw
materials and then they could make something just as good as anyone else...
how about this analogy: get a recipe from your MOM, for , say, Lasagne or her favorite Pie.......follow it to the letter
and then tell me that it tastes just as good as hers? LOL.......
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Posted
by basseracci on
John,
Don't get me started on Italian food, I am still on a
diet...
To some people, The Olive Garden is like an "IM 10" Italian eatery lol !!!...
Mark D
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Posted
by JOHN G on
Mark: I have been on a diet for the last 3 weeks also, this is going to be a long one, extending all the way to this time next year....have to finally do something about the excess poundage.....problem is , with the way I lift, I simply cannot go on a low low calorie diet, so I have to be patient and content to do this thing over a very long haul.....I want to fine tune it to a point where I am only losing 1 pound a week......
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Posted
by basseracci on
LUNCH !!!
Yeah but lets not rule
out those off-season lunches we have...
I have to indulge freely at least once a week...The problem is that my wife is
too good of a cook and I overindulge, and all too frequently now...I put back
on 10 lbs after losing close to 50...But I still only have one ass, and I hope
not to re-grow that other one I was carrying around !!!...And
my boats row a lot easier too...
John, did you notice how the Italians have turned this very technically
informative fishing thread into a discussion about FOOD...What are we in the
"Cooking Forum" ?
Salivating Mark D
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Posted
by Bass Stalker on
quote:
Originally
posted by JOHN G
how about this analogy: get a recipe from your MOM, for , say, Lasagne or her favorite Pie.......follow it to the letter
and then tell me that it tastes just as good as hers? LOL.......
John,
You know what....I make a BETTER lasagna than my mother....my grandmother is
another story !!! ![]()
Ronnie
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Posted
by JOHN G on
Ronnie: forget it
altogether about topping my Grandmother's lasagne.....it
was freakin' unreal!
yes, Mark, the Paisanos have
taken over the board! LOL.....
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Posted
by Paul_M on
The universal story. Things were always better when made by a grandmother. For instance my father's grandmother made unreal potato salad. He has been bugging his mother, his aunts and sisters and anyone that will listen for the recipe for 50 years now. Is it the type of potato, the mayo, or just taste buds that were different in youth?
Posted
by earthworm77 on
Paul, good point. Sometimes I think memories become "hyped" up a little, especially if you haven't had that potato salad in a while. I remember similiar things that my Grandfather used to make. He passed on in 1983 when I was only 12 or so but his legacy of cooking still holds strong. Now I know it was good stuff but I will never again sample his food. Knowing this, I may think it is better than it really was. I know I can't have it so my mind has made it out to be something I cherish. Sorry if I am being confusing, coming off the Vicodin right now. I stopped using it for a week but yesterday the pain was bad........
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Posted
by Wild Bill on
Now you did it....you all
got me hungry...bring it on....LOL
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Posted
by Lpbassman on
I need info on a good diet as I need to drop 15-20 pounds. Either that or I'm gonna sew my lips shut with power pro! LOL
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Posted
by joe p on
quote:
I need info on a good diet as I need to drop 15-20 pounds.
ahem.....try 50.....
Posted
by Anna's Dad on
Try Atkins
quote:
Originally posted by Lpbassman
I need info on a good diet as I need to drop 15-20 pounds. Either that or I'm gonna sew my lips shut with power pro! LOL
Lp, I've dropped 10 pounds
over the last few weeks on the Atkins Diet and know a bunch of people who've
had success with it as well. Get his book and check it out. Basically, in the
beginning, you're cutting out carbs--no bread,
potatoes, pasta, sugar--but you can eat as much protein--meat, cheese,
eggs--with some vegetables as you need to avoid being hungry.
You can eat very well on Atkins, but it can be a little inconvenient and a
little expensive. For example, I had to replace my usual quick bagel or bowl of
cereal for breakfast with something like eggs and bacon, sausage, or ham.
Having to find something other than a sandwich for lunch can also be a pain.
As you drop the weight, you can start re-introducing a limited amount of the carbs (so a mutt like me can have his pasta and his matzoh balls SOMETIMES).
This is not a low fat diet, and that's really the deal. Many people apparently
find it easier to avoid carbs than to avoid fat.
(Sadly, you have to give up french
fries either way.) And a lot of people who are avoiding fat, wind up gorging on
carbs and gaining wieght.
Low fat foods are often loaded with sugar.
When I read the book, I thought the diet seemed a little whacky at the margins,
so I checked with my doctor before getting too far into it. She said it was OK
as long as I was loosing weight, but not a good lifetime proposition for me.
Check with your doctor before you start.
Good luck.
Posted
by Bass Rat on
If you choose Atkins you must read the book. You must adhere to the entire principle strickly. You need a complete physical first, withe blood work. You also have to avoid all over the conter remedies while on this diet. The book will also explain the physioligy regarding this diet, which works on kitosys (sp) Turning your body into a fat burning furnace. You also must take suplimental vitamins. It can have very good results. But if you cheat you will gain alot of weight. I just don't like a diet that excludes fruits & Veggies for the most part. Good Luck LP. PS you ain't drinking on this diet.
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Posted
by Anna's Dad on
Odd Turn
Well, this thread
certainly has taken an odd turn.
In any case, Atkins is the most restrictive in the first couple of weeks. After
that, you have a little more latitude. Its definitely
not for everyone, but if you haven't had success with dieting, especially with
low-fat or low-calorie diets, then this is worth a look. As I said, my doctor
does not think it is a good lifetime strategy for me, but also thinks that its OK while I'm losing weight. So, if you're interested,
you certainly should check with your own doctor.
Posted
by JOHN G on
Im so sorry I ruined this guy's thread!
LOL.....
anyway, a word about ATkins: yes, it will work, no it
is not for everyone...
you see, your body is not just a fat burning furnace on that diet, it also
begins to use Protein for energy too......the last thing anyone taking part in
any sort of high level athletics would want is for their body to get into a
protein burning mode for energy......
this is critical!!! if you go through a stretch and
protein is not supplied, just where do you think your body will get it from? your own tissue....it will catabolize....big
time.....
not unlike the wasting you see when people have
cancer.......
dieting and preserving LEAN tissue at the same time is not easy, and certainly
not served by the ATkins diet.....
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Posted
by joe p on
um....the rods...what about the rods?....
Posted
by JOHN G on
JOe, actually, we answered his rod question a long time ago!!
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Posted
by Steve_IA on
If I missed it I apologize John, but I missed any reference to rod weight as a factor in using higher modulus blanks. As mentioned previously, higher modulus blanks are usually stiffer blanks allowing manufacturers to use less material in their blanks while maintaining the rod actions they want and allowing them to be lighter. I think these higher modulus blanks wouldn't be any more delicate than a lower modulus blank if they contained the same amount of blank material.
Posted
by earthworm77 on
Good point but the decrease in weight is minimal. You're talking about less than an ounce per blank. If you want to decrease weight....do it by get lighter reels. You can stick with a blank that weighs 3 to 4 ounces which is the top end of the spectrum.
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Posted
by Steve_IA on
I agree with your point Craig, however, competition between companies can become pretty extreme. Lighter stiffer materials do transmit vibration better and casting characteristics are thought to be improved. The last decade has seen an increase in the length of rods that fishermen prefer as well as rod specialization. I think these two factors (along with the afore mentioned competition) have driven rod manufacturers toward higher modulus blanks. Most manufacturers have an assortment of different modulus blanks to accomodate a variety of technique needs.
Posted
by earthworm77 on
With more comp. the price should be driven down, even with the big guns...that just isn't the case though.
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